Process for permanently reshaping the hair using particular aminosilicones

ABSTRACT

A process for permanently reshaping keratin fibres, comprising the application to the keratin fibres, before reducing and/or after the fixing, of a pre-treatment and/or post-treatment cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one aminosilicone, as defined herein, in non-microemulsified form.

[0001] The present disclosure relates to a process for permanentlyreshaping keratin fibres, for example, hair. This process may be used,for example, in professional hairstyling salons, or privately via themarketing of kits.

[0002] The expression “permanent reshaping process” means anylong-lasting process for shaping, curling, straightening or relaxing thehair.

[0003] The expression “keratin fibres” means, for example, hair,eyelashes and eyebrows.

[0004] One technique for obtaining a permanent reshaping of the haircomprises, in a first stage, opening the keratin —S—S—disulphide(cystine) bonds using a reducing composition comprising a reducing agent(reduction), followed, for example, after having rinsed the hair thustreated, by reconstituting, in a second stage, the disulphide bonds byapplying to the hair, which has been placed under tension beforehand(for example, with curlers and the like), an oxidizing composition(oxidizing, also known as fixing) so as to finally give the hair thedesired shape. This technique thus can make it equally possible eitherto make the hair wavy or to straighten or relax it. The new shape givento the hair by a chemical treatment such as above can be long-lastingand may, for example, withstand the action of washing with water and/orshampoos, as opposed to other techniques for temporary reshaping, suchas hairsetting.

[0005] The reducing composition that may be used to carry out thereduction of a permanent-waving process may comprise, as reducingagents, sulphites, bisulphites or thiols. Among the thiols that may bementioned are cysteine and its various derivatives, cysteamine and itsderivatives, thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid and its esters, such asglyceryl monothioglycolate, and thioglycerol.

[0006] As to the oxidizing composition used to carry out the fixing,compositions based on aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution or alkali metalbromates may be used.

[0007] One disadvantage of the permanent-waving techniques known to dateis that applying them repeatedly to the hair may induce in the long terma gradual deterioration in the quality of the hair, for example, agradual and pronounced deterioration in the sheen and the cosmeticproperties of the hair, such as the softness of the fibres, which mayhave a tendency to become more and more coarse, and also as regardstheir disentangling, the hair may become more and more difficult todisentangle. This deterioration may be pronounced when the fixing of thepermanent-waving process is carried out using a bromate.

[0008] To limit this deterioration of the hair, it has already beenproposed to introduce conditioners directly into the reducingcomposition. For example, Japanese patent applications H2-250814 andH9-151120 describe reducing compositions containing aminosilicones,which may optionally be in the form of a microemulsion.

[0009] However, processes for permanently reshaping the hair using suchcompositions are not always entirely satisfactory, since the degree, thequality and liveliness of the curls may be insufficient and short-lived,for example, if the conditioner, such as aminosilicones, directlycombined with the reducing agent to block the activity of the reducingagent.

[0010] The present disclosure addresses at least one of thesedisadvantages by providing a process for permanently reshaping keratinfibres, such as hair, which can reduce the degree of mechanical and/orcosmetic degradation of the hair, while at the same time providing asatisfactory degree, quality and liveliness of curls.

[0011] The inventors have discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly,that by applying to the hair, before applying the reducing compositionand/or after having applied the oxidizing composition, at least onepre-treatment and/or post-treatment cosmetic composition comprising atleast one aminosilicone as defined below, it is possible to solve atleast one of the problems.

[0012] One new embodiment is a process for permanently reshaping keratinfibres, such as hair, comprising the following:

[0013] (i) applying a reducing composition to the keratin fibres; and

[0014] (ii) oxidizing the keratin fibres;

[0015] wherein the process also comprises applying to the keratinfibres, before (i) and/or after (ii), a pre-treatment and/orpost-treatment cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmeticallyacceptable medium, at least one aminosilicone in non-microemulsifiedform chosen from the following aminosilicones of formulae (I) and (II):

[0016] Aminosilicones of Formula (I)

[0017] in which:

[0018] m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) range, from 1 to 1000, such as from 50 to 250 and further such as from 100 to 200;

[0019] n is a number ranging from 0 to 999, and further, for example,from 49 to 249 and even further, for example, from 125 to 175; m isnumber ranging from 1 to 1 000, and further, for example, from 1 to 10,and even further, for example, from 1 to 5;

[0020] R₁, R₂, R₃, which may be identical or different, are chosen fromhydroxyl and C₁-C₄ alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicalsR₁, R₂ and R₃ is chosen from C₁-C₄ alkoxy radicals.

[0021] In one embodiment, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0022] The hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio may range, for example, from0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and further, for example, from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1, and evenfurther, for example, is equal to 0.3:1.

[0023] The aminosilicone of formula (I) can have a weight-averagemolecular mass ranging, for example, from 2 000 to 1 000 000, andfurther, for example, from 3 500 to 200 000.

[0024] Aminosilicones of Formula (II)

[0025] in which:

[0026] p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges, for example,from 1 to 1 000, such as from 50 to 350 and further such as from 150 to250;

[0027] p is a number ranging from 0 to 999, and further, for example,from 49 to 349, and even further, for example, from 159 to 239; and q isa number ranging from 1 to 1 000, and further, for example, from 1 to 10and even further, for example, from 1 to 5;

[0028] R₁, R₂, which may be identical or different, are chosen fromhydroxyl and C₁-C₄ alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicalsR₁ and R₂ is chosen from C₁-C₄ alkoxy radicals.

[0029] In one embodiment, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0030] The hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio may range, for example, from1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and further, for example, from 1:0.9 to 1:1, and evenfurther, for example, is equal to 1:0.95.

[0031] The aminosilicone of formula (II) may have a weight-averagemolecular mass ranging, for example, from 2 000 to 200 000, and further,for example, from 5 000 to 100 000, and even further, for example, from10 000 to 50 000.

[0032] The weight-average molecular masses of these aminosilicones aremeasured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature aspolystyrene equivalent. The columns used are μ styragel columns. Theeluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 μl of a solutioncontaining 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected. The detectionis made by refractometry and UVmetry.

[0033] The expression “non-microemulsified” means a silicone used as itis or in the form of an emulsion in the presence of at least onesurfactant, the number-average size of the silicone particles in theemulsion being greater than 70 nm, ranging, for example, from 70 to 500nm. One of ordinary skill in the art can measure such particle sizes byknown methods. Such particle sizes are measured with a lasergranulometer.

[0034] The surfactant may be of any type, such as cationic and/ornonionic.

[0035] Another new embodiment relates to a kit for permanently reshapingkeratin fibres, comprising at least one compartment comprising apre-treatment and/or post-treatment cosmetic composition comprising atleast one aminosilicone as defined above.

[0036] The commercial products corresponding to these aminosilicones offormula (I) or (II) may include in their composition at least one otheraminosilicone whose structure is different from the formulae (I) and(II).

[0037] A product containing aminosilicones of formula (I) is proposed bythe company Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 652®.

[0038] Products containing aminosilicones of formula (II) are proposedby the company Wacker under the names Fluid WR 1300® and Finish WR 1300.

[0039] In one embodiment, the at least one aminosilicone chosen fromformulae (I) and (II) is chosen such that the contact angle with waterof hair treated with a composition comprising 2% AM (active materials)of the aminosilicone ranges, for example, from 90 to 180°, and such asfrom 90 to 130°. As used herein, a range “from x to y” includes withinthe range the endpoints x and y.

[0040] In another embodiment, the composition comprising at least oneaminosilicone chosen from aminosilicones of formulae (I) and (II) ischosen such that the contact angle of hair treated with the compositionranges, for example, from 90 to 180° such as from 90 to 130°.

[0041] The measurement of the contact angle is based on the immersion ofhair in distilled water. The measurement includes evaluating the forceexerted by the water on the hair during its immersion in distilled waterand during its removal. The forces thus measured are directly linked tothe contact angle θ between the water and the surface of the hair. Thehair is said to be hydrophilic when the angle θ ranges from 0 to lessthan 90°, and hydrophobic when this angle ranges from 900 to 180°.

[0042] The test is carried out with locks of natural hair which havebeen bleached under the same conditions and then washed.

[0043] Each mesh of 1 g is placed in a crystallizing dish 75 mm indiameter and then homogeneously coated with 5 ml of the formula to betested. The lock is thus left for 15 minutes at room temperature andthen rinsed for 30 seconds. The drained lock is left in the open airuntil it is completely dry.

[0044] For each evaluation, 10 hair strands which have undergone thesame treatment are analysed. Each sample, attached to a precisionmicrobalance, is immersed by the tip in a container filled withdistilled water. This DCA balance (Dynamic Contact Angle Analyser), fromthe company Cahn Instruments, makes it possible to measure the force (F)exerted by the water on the hair.

[0045] In parallel, the perimeter of the hair (P) is measured via amicroscopy observation.

[0046] The mean wettability force on 10 hair strands and the section ofhair analysed make it possible to obtain the contact angle of the hairon the water, according to the formula:

F=P*Γlv*cos θ

[0047] where F is the wettability force expressed in Newtons, P theperimeter of the hair in metres, Γlv the liquid/steam interfacialtension of the water in J/m² and θ the contact angle. The product SLM28020® from Wacker at 12% in water (that is 2% as active materials)gives a contact angle of 93° according to the test indicated above.

[0048] In one embodiment, the concentration of the at least oneaminosilicone in the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment compositionranges, for example, from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition, such as from 0.1 to 7% by weight relative tothe total weight of the composition.

[0049] The pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition comprising atleast one aminosilicone may further comprise at least one active agentchosen from water-soluble and liposoluble active agents, having cosmeticand/or dermopharmaceutical activity. Non-limiting examples of thoseactive agents include vitamins and derivatives thereof such as vitaminE, vitamin E acetate, vitamin C and its esters, the B vitamins, vitaminA alcohol and retinol, vitamin A acid and retinoic acid and itsderivatives, provitamins such as panthenol, vitamin A palmitate,niacinamide, ergocalciferol, antioxidants, essential oils, wettingagents, silicone and non-silicone sunscreens, preserving agents,sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, pigments, moisturizers,anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, plasticizers, hydroxyacids, electrolytes, solvents and fragrances.

[0050] The composition may also comprise at least one solvent, such asC1-C8 lower alcohols such as ethanol.

[0051] The pH of the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment compositioncomprising at least one aminosilicone ranges, for example, from 2 to 10,such as from 3 to 9.

[0052] In one embodiment, the pre-treatment composition comprising atleast one aminosilicone as defined above is applied to the hair to betreated, which will optionally have been moistened beforehand. Thisapplication may be performed after the usual procedure of placing thehair under tension in a shape corresponding to the desired final shapefor the hair (for example curls), This procedure itself can possibly becarried out by any means, such as a mechanical means, that is suitableand known per se for maintaining hair under tension, such as rollers,curlers and the like.

[0053] In another embodiment, the pre-treatment and/or post-treatmentcomposition comprising at least one aminosilicone is left to act on thehair, at room temperature or under heat, for a period of time rangingfrom, for example, 1 to 60 minutes, such as from 3 to 30 minutes.

[0054] According to an option in the process, the hair impregnated withthe pre-treatment composition comprising at least one aminosilicone canbe rinsed, wherein the rinsing can be carried out using water.

[0055] In the process, a reducing composition is applied to the hair,wherein the reducing composition may comprise at least one thiol.

[0056] The thiol in the reducing composition may be chosen from thiolsknown as reducing agents such as thioglycolic acid, glyceryl and glycolmonothioglycolate, cysteamine and its C₁-C₄ acyl derivatives such asN-acetylcysteamine or N-propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine,sugar N-mercaptoalkylamides such as N-(2-mercaptoethyl)gluconamide,3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid and itsesters such as glyceryl monothiolactate, thiomalic acid, pantethine,thioglycerol, alkali metal and alkaline-earth metal sulphites andbisulphites, the N-(mercaptoalkyl)-ω-hydroxyalkylamides described inpatent application EP-A-354 835 and the N-mono- orN,N-dialkylmercapto-4-butyramides described in patent applicationEP-A-368 763, the aminomercaptoalkylamides described in patentapplication EP-A-432 000, the N-(mercaptoalkyl)succinamic acid andN-(mercaptoalkyl)succinimide derivatives described in patent applicationEP-A-465 342, the alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides described in patentapplication EP-A-514 282, and the mixture of 2-hydroxypropylthioglycolate and of 2-hydroxy-1-methylethyl thioglycolate described inpatent application FR-A-2 679 448.

[0057] In one embodiment, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid and3-mercaptopropionic acid are chosen for use.

[0058] The reducing agent may be present in a concentration that mayrange, for example, from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the totalweight of the reducing composition.

[0059] The pH of the reducing composition may range, for example, from 6to 10, and further, for example, from 7 to 9.

[0060] The pH values of the reducing compositions may be conventionallyadjusted by adding at least one basifying agent. Non-limiting examplesof such basifying agents include aqueous ammonia, monoethanolamine,diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine,ammonium and alkali metal carbonates and bicarbonates, primary,secondary and tertiary amine carbonates and bicarbonates and organiccarbonates such as guanidine carbonate.

[0061] The reducing composition may be in the form of a thickened orunthickened lotion, a cream, a gel, or any other suitable form, and maycomprise additives known for their use in reducing compositions forpermanently reshaping the hair.

[0062] The reducing composition may also be of the exothermic type,i.e., the type causing a certain level of heating during application tothe hair, affording a pleasant sensation to the person on whom thepermanent-waving or straightening process is being performed.

[0063] The reducing composition may also comprise a solvent such asethanol, propanol, isopropanol and glycerol, in a maximum concentrationof 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] When the compositions are intended for a hair straightening orrelaxing process, the reducing composition may be, for example, in theform of a thickened cream so as to keep the hair as straight aspossible. These creams are prepared in the form of “heavy” emulsions,for example, based on glyceryl stearate, glycol stearate,self-emulsifiable waxes, fatty alcohols, etc.

[0065] It is also possible to use liquids or gels containing thickenerssuch as carboxyvinyl polymers or copolymers which can “stick” the hairstogether and keep them in the smooth position during the exposure time.

[0066] The compositions may also be in a “self-neutralizing” or“self-regulated” form and, in this case, the reducing agents used may becombined with at least one disulphide known for its use in a reducingcomposition for self-neutralizing permanent waving.

[0067] In one non-limiting example, the hair onto which the reducingcomposition has been applied is left to rest for a few minutes, such asranging from 2 to 40 minutes and further such as ranging from 5 to 30minutes, so as to allow the reducing agent sufficient time to actcorrectly on the hair. This waiting stage may be carried out by leavingthe treated hair to rest in the open air (at room temperature or withheating). During this waiting stage, care may be taken to ensure thatthe hair does not dry out completely but instead remains humid.

[0068] The hair impregnated with the reducing composition may then becarefully rinsed, such as with water. Optionally, after rinsing, a stageof heating at high temperature for a few seconds may be carried out.

[0069] An oxidizing composition can then be applied to the hair thusrinsed, with the aim of fixing the new shape given to the hair. It mayalso be envisaged to leave the hair to be oxidized by the air.

[0070] The oxidizing composition comprises an oxidizing agent that maybe chosen from aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, alkali metalbromates, persalts and polythionates. As mentioned previously, one ofthe advantages of an embodiment of the process disclosed is that it canbe entirely suitable in the case of bromate-based oxidizingcompositions. The bromate concentration in the oxidizing compositionranges, for example, from 0.1 to 2 M.

[0071] The pH of the oxidizing composition may range, for example, from2 to 10.

[0072] As in the case of the application of the reducing composition,the hair onto which the oxidizing composition has been applied is then,left for a standing or waiting stage that may last a few minutes, forexample, ranging from 3 to 30 minutes and further, for example, rangingfrom 5 to 15 minutes.

[0073] The post-treatment composition comprising at least oneaminosilicone as defined above is, for example, applied, after rinsingout the oxidizing composition, to wet or dry hair. The hair that hasundergone the post-treatment may optionally be dried and/or heatedand/or rinsed, before being styled. Where appropriate, the compositionmay be applied while the hair is maintained by a mechanical device, forexample, hairsetting rollers or curlers.

[0074] Usually, the hair impregnated with the oxidizing composition isrinsed carefully, such as with water. Before or after rinsing, thekeratin fibres may be separated from the implement used for placing thekeratin fibres under tension.

[0075] The hair finally obtained can have good cosmetic properties: thehair can be shinier, softer and easier to disentangle or to style.

[0076] In one embodiment, the pre-treatment and/or post-treatmentcomposition comprising at least one aminosilicone as defined above isapplied according to at least one of the following variants:

[0077] to clean, wet hair, before using the implement for placing thehair under tension, without rinsing the hair before applying thereducing agent; and

[0078] to wet hair after rinsing out the fixing agent, the hair beingsubsequently either rinsed and/or dried.

[0079] When the process for permanently reshaping the hair is astraightening process, it is possible, in a manner that is known per se,to use a straightening agent, such as a thiol agent or an alkalineagent.

[0080] In the case of a thiol straightening agent, the process may becarried out, for example, by applying the pre-treatment and/orpost-treatment composition comprising at least one aminosilicone asdefined above according to at least one of the following variants:

[0081] to clean, wet hair, without rinsing before applying the reducingagent; and

[0082] to clean, wet hair, after rinsing out the fixing agent, byrinsing before drying the hair.

[0083] In the case of an alkaline straightening agent, the process maybe carried out, for example, by applying the pre-treatment and/orpost-treatment composition comprising at least one aminosilicone asdefined above to wet hair, after rinsing out neutralizing shampoo, byrinsing before drying the hair.

[0084] In the case of a hair curling process, the process can givelively curls, and the hair may be at least one of supple, light, silkyand well separated.

[0085] In the case of a hair straightening process, the process, forexample, may afford control of the body of the hair, may make the hairsmooth from the root to the tip and may give a more natural feel.

[0086] The present disclosure may be understood more clearly with theaid of the non-limiting examples which follow, which constitute variousembodiments of the process.

[0087] In the examples, a.m. means active material.

EXAMPLES

[0088] 1) Care Composition for Straightened Hair Ingredients % amcetylstearyl alcohol/sodium lauryl 12 sulphate/cetyl myristate/myristylalcohol (62/20/8/10) oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol (20 EO) 0.1 glycerine0.5 polydimethylsiloxane of formula (II) 2 proposed by Wacker under thename Finish WR 1300 demineralized water qs 100 g

[0089] This composition was applied to hair straightened with analkaline straightening agent, after rinsing out the cleansing shampoo.The composition was left for 1 to 10 minutes on the hair before beingrinsed out.

[0090] 2) Protective Care Composition Before Permanent Waving

[0091] The composition described in 1) may be used as apre-permanent-waving treatment. This composition was applied to wet hairbefore fitting curlers, and was not rinsed out before the application ofthe permanent-waving reducing agent. This composition could make itpossible to limit the degradation of the hair due to permanent waving,while making it possible to obtain tonic curls.

[0092] Similar results were obtained by replacing thepoly-dimethylsiloxane of formula (II) with an equivalent quantity ofpolydimethylsiloxane of formula (I) proposed by Wacker under the nameBelsil ADM 652.

What is claimed is:
 1. A process for permanently reshaping keratinfibres, comprising: (i) applying a reducing composition to the keratinfibres; and (ii) oxidizing the keratin fibres; wherein the processfurther comprises applying to the keratin fibres, before (i) and/orafter (ii), a pre-treatment and/or post-treatment cosmetic compositioncomprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least oneaminosilicone in non-microemulsified form chosen from aminosilicones offormulae (I) and (II) below:

wherein in formula (I): m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m)ranges from 1 to 1 000, n is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and m is anumber ranging from 1 to 1 000; R₁, R₂, R₃, which may be identical ordifferent, are chosen from hydroxyl and C₁-C₄ alkoxy radicals, whereinat least one of the radicals R₁, R₂ and R₃ is chosen from C₁-C₄ alkoxyradicals; and

wherein in formula (II): p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q)ranges from 1 to 1 000, p is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and q is anumber ranging from 1 to 1 000; R₁, R₂, which may be identical ordifferent, are chosen from hydroxyl and C₁-C₄ alkoxy radicals, whereinat least one of the radicals R₁ and R₂ is chosen from C₁-C₄ alkoxyradicals.
 2. The process according to claim 1, wherein in formula (I)the sum (n+m) ranges from 50 to
 250. 3. The process according to claim1, wherein in formula (I) the sum (n+m) ranges from 100 to
 200. 4. Theprocess according to claim 1, wherein in formula (I) the n is a numberranging from 49 to
 249. 5. The process according to claim 1, wherein informula (I) the n is a number ranging from 125 to
 175. 6. The processaccording to claim 1, wherein in formula (I) the m is a number rangingfrom 1 to
 10. 7. The process according to claim 1, wherein in formula(I) the m is a number ranging from 1 to
 5. 8. The process according toclaim 1, wherein in formula (II) the sum (p+q) ranges from 50 to
 350. 9.The process according to claim 1, wherein in formula (II) the sum (p+q)ranges from 150 to
 250. 10. The process according to claim 1, wherein informula (II) the p is a number ranging from 49 to
 349. 11. The processaccording to claim 1, wherein in formula (II) the p is a number rangingfrom 159 to
 239. 12. The process according to claim 1, wherein informula (II) the q is a number ranging from 1 to
 10. 13. The processaccording to claim 1, wherein in formula (II) the q is a number rangingfrom 1 to
 5. 14. The process according to claim 1, wherein the C₁-C₄alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
 15. The process according to claim1, wherein, for the at least one aminosilicone of formula (I), thehydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1.
 16. The processaccording to claim 15, wherein the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio rangesfrom 0.25:1 to 0.35:1.
 17. The process according to claim 16, whereinthe hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio is equal to 0.3:1.
 18. The processaccording to claim 1, wherein, for the at least one aminosilicone offormula (II), the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio ranges from 1:0.8 to1:1.1.
 19. The process according to claim 18, wherein thehydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio ranges from 1:0.9 to 1:1.
 20. The processaccording to claim 19, wherein the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio is equalto 1:0.95.
 21. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at leastone aminosilicone of formula (I) has a weight-average molecular massranging from 2 000 to 1 000
 000. 22. The process according to claim 21,wherein the at least one aminosilicone of formula (I) has aweight-average molecular mass ranging from 3 500 to 200
 000. 23. Theprocess according to claim 1, wherein the at least one aminosilicone offormula (II) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 2 000 to200
 000. 24. The process according to claim 23, wherein the at least oneaminosilicone of formula (II) has a weight-average molecular massranging from 5 000 to 100
 000. 25. The process according to claim 24,wherein the at least one aminosilicone of formula (II) has aweight-average molecular mass ranging from 10 000 to 50
 000. 26. Theprocess according to claim 1, wherein the at least one aminosilicone ischosen such that the contact angle with water of hair treated with acomposition comprising 2% AM (active materials) of the at least oneaminosilicone ranges from 90 to 180°.
 27. The process according to claim26, wherein the at least one aminosilicone is chosen such that thecontact angle with water of hair treated with a composition comprising2% AM (active materials) of the at least one aminosilicone ranges from90 to 130°.
 28. The process according claim 1, wherein the compositioncomprising at least one aminosilicone is chosen such that the contactangle with water of hair treated with the composition ranges from 90 to180°.
 29. The process according to claim 1, wherein the pH of thepre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition comprising at least oneaminosilicone ranges from 2 to
 10. 30. The process according to claim29, wherein the pH of the pre-treatment and/or post-treatmentcomposition comprising at least one aminosilicone ranges from 3 to 9.31. The process according to claim 1, wherein the concentration of theat least one aminosilicone in the pre-treatment and/or post-treatmentcomposition ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.
 32. The process according to claim 31,wherein the concentration of the at least one aminosilicone in thepre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition ranges from 0.1 to 7% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 33. The processaccording to claim 1, wherein the pre-treatment and/or post-treatmentcomposition is left to act on the keratin fibres for a period of timeranging from 1 to 60 minutes.
 34. The process according to claim 33,wherein the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition is left toact on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 3 to 30minutes.
 35. The process according to claim 1, wherein the pre-treatmentand/or post-treatment composition further comprises at least oneadditive chosen from vitamins and derivatives thereof, provitamins,antioxidants, essential oils, wetting agents, silicone and non-siliconesunscreens, preserving agents, sequestering agents, pearlescent agents,pigments, moisturizers, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents,plasticizers, hydroxy acids, electrolytes, solvents and fragrances. 36.The process according to claim 35, wherein the vitamins and derivativesthereof are chosen from vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, vitamin C and itsesters, B vitamins, vitamin A alcohol and retinol, and vitamin A acidand retinoic acid and derivatives thereof.
 37. The process according toclaim 35, wherein the provitamins are chosen from panthenol, vitamin Apalmitate, niacinamide, and ergocalciferol.
 38. The process according toclaim 1, wherein the keratin fibres are hair.
 39. A kit for permanentlyreshaping of keratin fibres comprising at least one compartmentcomprising a pre-treatment and/or post-treatment cosmetic compositioncomprising at least one aminosilicone in non-microemulsified form chosenfrom aminosilicones of formulae (I) and (II) below:

wherein in formula (I): m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m)ranges from 1 to 1 000, n is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and m is anumber ranging from 1 to 1 000; R₁, R₂, R₃, which may be identical ordifferent, are chosen from hydroxyl and C₁-C₄ alkoxy radicals, whereinat least one of the radicals R₁, R₂ and R₃ is chosen from C₁-C₄ alkoxyradicals; and

wherein in formula (II): p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q)ranges from 1 to 1 000, p is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and q is anumber ranging from 1 to 1 000; R₁, R₂, which may be identical ordifferent, are chosen from hydroxyl and C₁-C₄ alkoxy radicals, whereinat least one of the radicals R₁ and R₂ is chosen from C₁-C₄ alkoxyradicals.
 40. A pre-treatment and/or post-treatment cosmetic compositionfor pre-treatment and/or post-treatment in the permanent reshaping ofkeratin fibres comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium in saidcomposition, at least one aminosilicone in non-microemulsified formchosen from aminosilicones of formulas (I) and (II) below:

wherein in formula (I): m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m)ranges from 1 to 1 000, n is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and m is anumber ranging from 1 to 1 000; R₁, R₂, R₃, which may be identical ordifferent, are chosen from hydroxyl and C₁-C₄ alkoxy radicals, whereinat least one of the radicals R₁, R₂ and R₃ is chosen from C₁-C₄ alkoxyradicals; and

wherein in formula (II): p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q)ranges from 1 to 1 000, p is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and q is anumber ranging from 1 to 1 000; R₁, R₂, which may be identical ordifferent, are chosen from hydroxyl and C₁-C₄ alkoxy radicals, whereinat least one of the radicals R₁ and R₂ is chosen from C₁-C₄ alkoxyradicals.